The Roman Empire smelled of patchouli

Newswise — A research group at Cordoba University has, for the initial instance, determined the formulation of a 2,000-year-old Roman fragrance due to uncovering a petite ointment container in Carmona.

In the ancient Roman settlement of Carmo, present-day Carmona in Seville province, an individual deposited an ointment vessel within a burial urn two millennia ago. Fast forward twenty centuries, and the FQM346 research team, under the leadership of Professor José Rafael Ruiz Arrebola, an expert in Organic Chemistry at the University of Cordoba, collaborated with the City of Carmona to unravel the chemical composition of a first-century AD perfume. The findings were published in the scientific journal Heritage based in Switzerland, featuring an article co-authored by Ruiz Arrebola, the municipal archaeologist Juan Manuel Román, and UCO researchers Daniel Cosano and Fernando Lafont. Through their technical and scientific endeavors, this extraordinary research enables the world to experience the essence of the long-gone Roman Empire.

The perfume's remnants, unearthed in 2019 during an archaeological excavation within a mausoleum discovered during house construction on Calle Sevillat, had endured over time, solidifying within a meticulously sealed quartz vessel. According to Román's account, the tomb appeared to be a collective burial site, possibly belonging to a prosperous family. Amongst numerous funerary objects (offerings and personal belongings), six adult cinerary urns—three women and three men—were uncovered. Inside one of the glass urns, resting atop the cremated skeletal remains of a woman aged between 30 and 40 years old, a preserved fragment of a cloth bag was found. Within it, three amber beads and a small flask crafted from hyaline quartz, resembling an amphora, held the ointment. Perfume containers were typically made from blown glass, with only a few rare instances of such material, which due to its hardness, made carving intricate designs challenging, thus rendering them exceptionally valuable and costly. Besides the vessel's uniqueness, the truly remarkable aspect of this discovery was its impeccable sealing, preserving the solid perfume residues within, enabling the subsequent analysis.

Emphasizing the significance, Ruiz Arrebola highlights that the utilization of dolomite, a carbon-based material, as a stopper, along with the application of bitumen for sealing, played a pivotal role in the remarkable preservation of both the artifact and its contents.

To unravel the composition of the perfume, various instrumental techniques were employed, including X-ray diffraction, gas chromatography, and mass spectrometry, among others. Through these analyses, it has been determined that the small cylindrical stopper was crafted from dolomite, a form of limestone, while bitumen was utilized to ensure a precise fit and create an airtight seal. Regarding the perfume itself, two distinct components have been identified. The first is a base or binder that facilitated the preservation of the aromatic elements. The second component is the essence, which aligns with descriptions provided by the renowned Pliny the Elder. The base is believed to be a vegetable oil, with indications from the analysis pointing towards the possibility of it being olive oil. However, definitive confirmation regarding this aspect could not be obtained.

And the essence?

Based on the chemical analyses conducted by the University of Cordoba, it has been revealed that the aroma of ancient Rome encompassed the fragrance of patchouli. Patchouli is an essential oil derived from the Indian plant Pogostemon cablin, which holds widespread usage in contemporary perfumery but was previously unknown during Roman times. The monumental nature of the tomb in which the perfume was discovered, coupled with the vessel's material composition, strongly implies that it was a highly prized and valuable product.

This groundbreaking study marks a significant advancement in the realm of Roman perfumery, shedding new light on the utilization of patchouli as an essential oil. Furthermore, ongoing research is underway to examine other exceptional materials, including amber, fabrics, and pigments employed in the wall paintings, that have been remarkably preserved within the Carmona mausoleum. Anticipated in the near future, these forthcoming results hold promise for further insights and discoveries.